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New Rules of Wine Pairing with Juan Fernando Cortés

New Rules of Wine Pairing with Juan Fernando Cortés

Wine pairing has long been considered an art form, requiring a keen understanding of food and wine to create a harmonious experience. Few people embody this artistry more than Juan Fernando Cortés, the sommelier who consistently pushes the boundaries of traditional rules of wine pairing. In SOMM TV’s episode of Pairings: Chirori, Cortés collaborates with renowned Chef Jackie Chang at Chirori, a Japanese fine dining establishment in Atlanta, to curate an unforgettable culinary experience. But this episode goes beyond the usual pairings, offering viewers a glimpse into the mind of a sommelier who embraces innovation and uncommon choices.

What sets Cortés apart is his refusal to rely on conventional wine-pairing wisdom and instead challenges assumptions with fresh perspectives. His thoughtful selections throughout the episode reflect his deep understanding of wine’s complexity and its ability to elevate even the most intricate dishes.

In this exclusive interview, we dive deep into the philosophy, methodology, and inspiration behind Juan Fernando Cortés’ extraordinary wine pairings. From his early love of wine, Cortés shares the stories and strategies that make him one of today’s most exciting sommeliers. Whether you’re a wine enthusiast or an industry professional, his insights offer a fascinating window into the world of wine pairing, one where innovation and tradition collide to create something truly exceptional.

Note: This interview has been edited for clarity and length.


Nicole MacKay: Your career in wine began when many of your friends were gravitating toward beer. What was it about wine that captivated you and led you to pursue it professionally?

Juan Fernando Cortés: I felt like beer was gross, which helped. My friends were not drinking the good microbrews you have now; it was more like Natural Light. Also, I was allowed to have small amounts of wine with food when I was young, so I developed a palate for it. I loved, and still love, wine’s color, aroma, and complexity.

Wine came into my life while at a crossroads. I was working as a commercial fisherman in Alaska, fishing snow crab and king crab out of Dutch Harbor. A few years into my career, the crab population was in decline, and I was furloughed for a few months. I started bartending back in Georgia at a restaurant where I knew the owners. Since I was expecting a call from the captain of the ship any day telling me to hop on a plane and go to Alaska, they gave me a job as a lunch bartender that was hard to fill since it was not well paid because the bar was mostly empty during lunch at this restaurant. That led to the manager often asking me to taste wine with reps when she was too busy. That, in turn, led to me getting to know more about wine and the wine industry.  I became friends with many of the reps, and they felt that I had a good palate and encouraged me to sign up for the CMS level one. The day I signed up for the test, the captain called me and told me to return to Alaska. I slept on that decision and then decided to stay in Atlanta and pursue a career in wine.

Juan Fernando Cortés as a fisherman / Image courtesy of Cortés

NM: From Alaska to Atlanta, wow. In the episode, you avoided the “easy” choices for pairings, like Champagne or Burgundy. Can you tell us more about your philosophy of pushing boundaries when selecting wines?

JFC: I don’t stay away from Champagne and Burgundy as a rule, but I had to find something more esoteric for the show.  I do the same when working on a restaurant’s floor.  If guests are only familiar with one particular wine or style, I take those cues and find something similar but different.  So if a guest lets me know that they only really ever drink Napa Cabernets and want something similar, I will probably bring them a bottle of Ribera del Duero or a Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the price range they are comfortable with.  I also let the guests know that I would take it back if they didn’t like the wine.  So they feel comfortable trying something new.  I rarely ever have anything sent back, though.

NM: For the third course, you paired a wine with different cuts of bluefin tuna. Since you couldn’t taste the sashimi beforehand, how did you approach pairing wines with such diverse textures and fat content? What did you look for in the wine to ensure it would work across all the cuts?

JFC: As a sommelier, you rely on your previous experience with wine and food, your training, and your instinct.  In this case, the supple body of the wine and the elevated acid made me think it would work on many levels.

NM: When it comes to pairing wine with fish, particularly oily or fatty fish like mackerel or tuna, what are some common misconceptions that people have, and how do you address them?

JFC: Regarding oily or well-marbled protein, I like to flip the script a little when it comes to pairing.  For example, most somms might pair fatty red meat like Wagyu with full-bodied, high-alcohol wines.  I like to pair wines that have lower alcohol and higher acidity with those cuts, whether it’s mackerel, tuna, or Wagyu.  I tell my guests that the acidity will cleanse the palate and let the flavors shine.

NM: You’ve described your pairing choices as being about honoring what Mother Nature gave us. How do you balance natural flavors with innovative pairings?

JFC: When working with a chef who tries to emphasize the quality of great ingredients, you must bring the same to the pairing.  A good somm will have many great wines from unexpected places in their arsenal,  great wines from people who respect the essence of their land, the terroir.  The balance is natural because the chef and the winery share an ethos.

NM: In pairing the Kunsei Sawara with Franciacorta, you emphasized that its bubbles helped cut through the fish’s richness. Could you explain how sparkling wines, specifically Franciacorta, can complement smoked and oily dishes?

JFC: It’s the acidity that cuts the fat and the wine’s complexity that complements Kunsei Sawara’s complexity.  Franciacorta is a great tool in a somm’s arsenal, and I attribute it to the fact that the region is still unknown to many consumers.  Thus, they must provide high quality and good value.

Juan Fernando Cortés in Pairings: Chirori / Image ©SOMM TV

NM: What was the most challenging dish to pair in the episode, and why? Did you ever consider any alternative wines that you ultimately ruled out?

JFC: Had to be the Kunsei Sawara. I had great French and Austrian Riesling on the table, Albariño from Rias Baixas and Napa, and Vermentino from Corsica. In the end, the best choice won.

NM: During the episode, you chose ROCO Winery’s Gravel Road Chardonnay for the miso black cod. How do you feel about the growing trend of American winemakers using Burgundian clones to craft wines that bridge Old and New World styles?

JFC: I love it.  It is a continuation of what makes the current world of wine so great.  Innovation on behalf of the producers, who also keep an eye on the traditions that made wine great.

NM: The 200-pound bluefin tuna cutting on camera was a visually powerful moment. How did the theatricality of that influence the wine choices? Did you feel any added pressure to pair something equally dramatic?

JFC: I felt like it was Chef Jackie’s show, and I was being honored by being included in the meal.  I wanted to honor him, and to do something to take the spotlight away would be disrespectful.  While the pairings were not the most obvious choices, they all worked beautifully. But no sabrage or anything like that.  That’s why I get along with chefs; I understand how hard they work to get to the point in their lives or careers where the spotlight is on them.  You have to be a team player.

NM: You mentioned that sushi and sashimi look simple but involve complex techniques. How do you ensure that your wine pairings enhance these subtle yet intricate dishesc

JFC: There is no formula, just practice.  I either want to find harmony in a pairing or balance it with something that complements it.  But I look for harmony first.

NM: Franciacorta plays a prominent role in the episode. Can you talk more about why you gravitate toward this region when pairing with Japanese cuisine?

JFC: I generally gravitate towards nascent wine-growing regions; I think many somms do.  These areas have something to prove and may also experiment with exciting, off-the-beaten-path grape varieties.  While Franciacorta is not nascent, their style of wine echoes that of Champagne, which is so well established that Franciacorta can feel like the new kid on the block.  To make a name for themselves, Franciacorta producers must make their wines better than the competition, which is Champagne.

The Ca’ del Bosco wines are complex yet lean and crisp, complementing Japanese cuisine, particularly seafood.  I feel that many times, a great cut of seafood only really needs a little salt and lemon to make it shine.  So you take away the lemon and replace it with Franciacorta.

NM: Do you have a specific method or mental checklist when crafting pairings? Or do you let instinct guide you, particularly when working with chefs like Jackie, who emphasize the natural quality of ingredients?

JFC: It depends on if I am doing a pairing with which I have no experience or if it’s something I am familiar with.  I have been a sommelier for 15 years and have run the gamut of pairings.  I usually start with my gut, then taste the two items together.  If it works, it works.  If it doesn’t, I assess why and try something else.

NM: How do cultural influences shape the way you approach pairing wines with food?

JFC: My clientele is diverse, so I feel my offerings should also be.  When I was young and growing up in Colombia, my family mainly drank Spanish, Chilean, and Argentine wine.  Now, I am open to trying anything; if it’s good, it will find its way to the cellar.

NM: If you could go back and change one pairing from this episode, would you? Or is there a wine you wish you had the chance to experiment with that you didn’t include in the show?

JFC: When I decided to use the Ca’ del Bosco Cuvee Ana Maria Clementi, I was tempted to use the 1980 Reservas that I have in the cellar.  I only have two, though, and I did not think that would be enough. They would have been pretty epic with the Wagyu.


Watch the Pairings Trailer

Watch the trailer for Pairings: Chirori featuring Juan Fernando Cortés, and subscribe to SOMM TV to watch future episodes of the ongoing limited series.

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