Bourgogne — home to the world’s most revered Chardonnay and Pinot Noir — has long been the epitome of fine French wine. Today, as Bourgogne’s revival takes shape, its allure extends beyond the glass. One year after their appearance on SOMM TV’s Inheriting the Future, winemakers Gabin Richoux and Pauline Charles continue to exemplify the balance between preserving tradition and embracing change in a region adapting to modern challenges.
With the U.S. established as Bourgogne’s top export market in 2024, driven by a resurgence of premium, authentic wines, the heartbeat of this success lies in the vineyards and cellars where winemakers uphold the region’s rich heritage while charting its future.
“I’ve always believed Bourgogne wines are ambassadors — not just of our region, but of France,” says Richoux, co-owner of Domaine Gabin et Félix Richoux in Irancy. It’s a sentiment echoed in export numbers. A 2024 Bourgogne Wine Board report states the U.S. now accounts for nearly 20% of Bourgogne’s wine sales, with white wines alone making up 63% of total exports.
Richoux’s vineyard, rooted in organic practices since 2010, represents a new wave of Bourgogne producers blending tradition with ecological responsibility. Across the region, the balance between honoring the terroir and adapting to modern challenges — whether it’s shifting consumer preferences or climate unpredictability — is critical.
Pauline Charles of Domaine Charles Père et Filles is celebrated for her accessible yet complex Régionale AOCs, captures the duality of the region’s evolution. “We aim for wines with maximum fruit and balance,” she shares. Her approach reflects consumer demand for approachable wines while staying true to Bourgogne’s identity.
Defining Bourgogne’s Revival
In the first half of 2024, Bourgogne wines made a remarkable comeback in the U.S. market, growing both in volume (+4.1%) and value (+8.2%) compared to 2023. This growth defies a broader decline in U.S. wine consumption, which has been shrinking annually by 2%.
The key? Bourgogne’s positioning in the premium and ultra-premium market segments, where wines priced between $15 and $49, remain strong. Régionale AOCs, the backbone of Bourgogne’s exports, account for 53% of production and are driving much of this success. Charles’s wines — 80% of which fall under this level of appellation — are a testament to this trend. By introducing Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, she taps into the growing trend for wines that excel in delivering quality, value, and sheer drinking enjoyment.
But premium doesn’t have to mean inaccessible. “People are looking for fruity wines that are easy to enjoy but still showcase character,” Charles explains. Her strategy includes using social media to take consumers behind the scenes of vineyard life, making Bourgogne’s elegance approachable and relatable.
Navigating Challenges and Change
For Richoux, 2024 brought unprecedented challenges, including one of the smallest harvests in his estate’s history due to excessive rain and mildew. “Nature was stronger this year,” he reflects. Yet, his commitment to organic practices remains steadfast, emphasizing biodiversity through tree planting and hedge restoration.
Similarly, Charles adapted to challenging conditions by reducing allocation volumes to manage shortages without compromising quality. “Satisfying everyone remains our daily challenge,” she says, a sentiment that resonates across the region as climate change forces winemakers to rethink vineyard management.
Both winemakers agree that adaptability is key — not just in the vineyard but also in consumer outreach. Richoux, whose sales are evenly divided between export, professional, and direct-to-consumer markets, sees potential in expanding into new markets. On the other hand, Charles has embraced online platforms like Winalist and Rue des Vignerons to reach more private customers.
A Bright Future for Bourgogne Wines
As Bourgogne wines continue to gain momentum in key export markets, their ability to balance tradition with innovation remains their greatest strength. Whether it’s the lighter, lower-alcohol red wines Richoux champions or Charles’s focus on accessible yet sophisticated styles, the region’s winemakers are united by a shared commitment to their craft.
For consumers, this means more than just exceptional wine — it’s an invitation to experience the stories and landscapes that make Bourgogne unique. “We don’t chase trends,” Gabin insists. “We make wines that respect the terroir and the vintage.”
From the rolling hills of Irancy to the limestone-rich soils of the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Bourgogne’s winemakers are more than producers; they’re stewards of a legacy. And as they adapt to the demands of a changing world, their wines remain timeless — profound expressions of a region defined by resilience and passion.
