In Argentina, beef is more than just a meal — it’s a cultural cornerstone, a symbol of heritage, and a daily staple. As Chef Matias Mansilla from Siete Fuegos articulates, “Meat in Argentina is 80% of our diet.” This emphasis on beef — renowned Argentine steak — is rooted in the country’s geography, traditions, and culinary expertise.
From the vast grasslands of La Pampa to the aging rooms of Buenos Aires, SOMM TV’s episode of “Chef’s Notebook: The Perfect Steak” highlights Argentine beef, from pasture to plate, as the pinnacle of flavor and quality.
Sourcing and Aging the Perfect Beef
The story of Argentine beef begins in La Pampa, a region noted for its expansive pastures and optimal cattle-raising conditions. Here, cows roam freely and graze on natural grass, a practice that significantly influences meat quality. “Our cows [thrive] on big lands and eat only grass. Everything is natural,” explains Chef Matias. This natural diet results in beef rich in flavor yet leaner than grain-fed counterparts.
However, this method of raising cattle also has its challenges. The constant movement and natural diet make the meat slightly tougher. To address this, Argentine butchers and chefs utilize a well-known strategy. “That’s why we need to use the dry-aged process to make it more tender and flavorful,” says Matias.
Dry-Aging Argentine Steak
At Parilla Don Julio, one of Buenos Aires’ most esteemed steakhouses, the aging process is treated meticulously. Pablo Rivera, owner, chef, and sommelier, explains their approach: “We receive 16 tons of beef each month from young bulls and process it in our butcher shop,” he says.
Rivera emphasizes that the goal is to enhance the meat’s natural attributes without overshadowing its inherent flavors. “The longest aging we do is 23 to 25 days, not more than that. We want people to [experience] tender meat with an intense flavor. But it’s always meat flavor, always the taste of the product, not something else.”
By carefully managing the aging time and conditions, the chefs ensure that each cut of beef reaches its peak expression, showcasing the best of what Argentine beef offers.
Preparing and Seasoning Argentine Steak
Once the beef is perfectly aged, its preparation and cooking are the next crucial steps. In “Chef’s Notebook: The Perfect Steak,” Chef Mansilla provides a masterclass in handling different cuts of steak, including strip loin, dry-aged rib eye, fresh rib eye, and skirt steak.
He begins by trimming any excess fat and seasoning the meat simply but effectively. “I remove just a little bit [of the fat]. And then, I’ll salt each side and add only olive oil directly on the grill, and that’s it. Rock salt on all sides and put directly on the grill,” he instructs.
This straightforward approach to seasoning allows the natural flavors of the beef to shine through. By using rock salt and a touch of olive oil, the true essence of the meat is preserved, ready to be enhanced by the grilling process.
In Argentina, grilling is more than just a cooking method — it’s a tradition steeped in history and cultural significance. The use of wood fire, a technique passed down from the gauchos (Argentine cowboys), remains a hallmark of authentic Argentine grilling. “They didn’t have gas; they used wood. We keep the tradition and still use wood fires,” Matias explains, underscoring the deep respect for this culinary tradition.
Finishing Touches: Chimichurri Sauce
No Argentine steak is complete without a generous dollop of chimichurri sauce. “[It’s] a sauce from Argentina of herbs, vinegar, and olive oil; we mix it fresh and put it on top of the beef,” explains Chef Matias. The vibrant, herbaceous condiment complements the beef’s rich flavors and adds a refreshing contrast.
The art of Argentine steak is meaningful, a connection to its agricultural practices and cultural identity. As Rivera eloquently expresses, “Everyone in this country has a connection to someone who raises livestock or works in the meat industry. It is part of our DNA.”
This relationship with beef, reflected in every aspect of its preparation, from the careful rearing of grass-fed cattle in La Pampa to the expert aging and grilling techniques employed by Argentine chefs, is a cornerstone of Argentine society.
By understanding and appreciating these time-honored practices, we can truly savor the spirit of Argentine steak — a cultural blend of nature, tradition, and culinary mastery.
Subscribe to SOMM TV to watch “Chef’s Notebook: The Perfect Steak” and other episodes, including “Chef’s Notebook: Chimichurri” and “Chef’s Notebook: Paella.”
